Why your Platinum toner turned pink
The Blondesse Platinum toner contains a combination of blue and violet pigments. The purpose of the violet pigment is to tone down any residual yellow tones, so that the blue pigment can tone the hair into a platinum.
Recommended mixing ratio is 1:2 with 3.5 – 7 Vol for 5 – 15 minutes. The 5 Vol is not recommended as the Platinum toner already contains violet pigments, unless there is a lot of residual yellow tones remaining after lightening.
A platinum toner turning pink can happen for a few different reasons in the salon:
1. The level of the hair
Because of the violet pigments contained in the toner, if the hair is very pale (level 10), the violet pigment can grab too strongly as there is very little leftover warmth to be neutralized. The hair can look pink or rosy. To prevent pigment load, dilute the platinum toner with the translucent toner or rather opt for the Icy Blonde.
2. The porosity of the hair
Hair that has been lightened multiple times or is very damaged absorbs pigment unevenly. You will normally find that the ends turn more pink than the roots and midlenghts. The toner will also turn pink very fast into the processing time. To prevent pigment load, use a porosity equalizer prior to toning and/or dilute the platinum toner with the translucent toner or rather opt for the Icy Blonde.
3. Possible traces of minerals in the hair
Water minerals (iron, copper) or product buildup can react with toner and shift the tone. This is common in areas with hard water or buildings with old pipes. Chlorine from swimming pools can also contribute, more so in summer. To remove possible minerals and metals, wash with a chelating shampoo prior to your technical service and if possible, again before toning. You can also dilute the platinum toner with the translucent toner or rather opt for the Icy Blonde.
4. Toner left on too long
The processing time for the toner is recommended for 5 – 15 minutes, depending on the hair structure and condition. Start checking from 5 minutes and rinse off once the desired tone has been achieved.
What is the Quick fix?
- Wash the hair with a good clarifying and chelating shampoo
- If there is a lot of remaining violet, the violet can be removed with the neutral + 10 – 20 Vol in a mixing ratio 1:2
- Dilute the platinum toner with the translucent or conditioner when the hair is a true level 10
- Use a blue-based toner instead of violet if the hair is extremely pale
- Add a porosity equalizer before toning next time