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Prevention is better than cure: The new Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener protect

The two biggest components in hair are keratin (a protein) and water, with keratin being the most significant. Keratin chains keep its structure via different bonds, being Saline bonds, Hydrogen bonds and disulphide bridges.  Chemical processes, heat styling, poor products, environmental factors, etc. can damage these bonds and result in different degrees of damaged hair.

Most new hair products released in the last few years focussed on the re-structuring of the disulphide bridges during and after the chemical service.  New research has shown that we cannot focus on the disulphide bridges alone but should in fact focus on the denaturation of the complete protein instead.

And that is where the new Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener comes in.  The Inebrya laboratory has functionalized an Osmo Protector active ingredient that can maintain the osmotic balance of hair proteins, protecting not only the sulphur bridges but also the keratin structure, which results in maximum hair hydration during and after the bleaching service.  The protection granted by the new patent pending system does not result from a strengthening of a single bond, but from a global efficacy that prevents the hair from losing its osmotic balance during the bleaching service.  In this way proteins do not undergo denaturation and the hair fibre is not damaged.

Remember that idiom “Prevention is better than cure”?  Well, now with the Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener you can prevent the damage from occurring in the first place and won’t have to waste time and money fixing it later.

This new bleach is ideal for people who have frequent bleaching and lightening services. Its formula is enriched with violet micro-pigments that neutralises the undesired pigment to achieve up to 7 levels of lightening. 

The powder is fragrance free to fully respect the scalp and to prevent allergies or intolerances to synthetic fragrances in clients and staff.  Thanks to new technology packaging, the packaging releases a pleasant fragrance through coloured pearls inside the cap.

The product achieves the best bleaching performances in a single step, keeping the physiological conditions of the hair intact, leaving the hair visibly restructured, shiny, controlled and moisturised.

Silicon free / Vegan / Paraffin free

 Further reading recommended:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denaturation_(biochemistry)

https://opentextbc.ca/biology/chapter/22-1-osmoregulation-and-osmotic-balance/

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Blondesse – the essence of blonde

Blondesse is a professional line – versatile, safe and complete – to satisfy all the blond needs both in salon and at home.

Blond will always remain one of the most iconic and loved colours by women.  This is why bleach services are the most requested service, but also the most challenging because it can damage the hair structure and the final result may be different from the expectation.

Blondesse is the new professional line designed for ensuring natural or intense lightening with delicate or extreme results.  A complete and safe bleaching system that offers all the solutions to achieve an excellent technical service, with full respect for the hair structure.  A smart line, defined by speed of execution and simple application, that caters for every technical and creative need of colourists.

The Blondesse range consist of:

6 bleach solutions
To allow the stylist to choose the most suitable bleaching product for the desired technical result based on the hair structure;
10 toners
A colour palette to customise the blonde with trendy shades;
2 treatments
Products with intoxicating fragrances and textures to maintain a perfect result both in salon and at home.

Why you will love Blondesse:

  1. Incredible professional performance
  2. Protection of the hair fibre and scalp
  3. Patented technology
  4. Complete professional system
  5. Absolute versatility
  6. Fast execution
  7. Simple application
  8. Sensory comfort
  9. Home maintenance range
  10. Competitive pricing

Blondesse offers hairdressers all the products to express their creativity, ensuring competitiveness in the market and top product performance. 

A perfect colour, shining and lasting that respects the beauty of the hair.

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How to use a colour corrector / intensifier as a fashion colour

You give your client the colour chart and you see that she is aiming in the direction of the correctors on the chart going absolutely crazy about the amazing vibrant “fashion colours”.  And inside of your mind you are screaming … Nooooo! … Please don’t! … Please choose another colour!

Oh the agony….

Then she puts her finger on that intense violet and says: “I want this”.  So with your amazing Colgate smile you try to the best of your ability to explain to her that it is not a fashion colour and it’s not supposed to be used on its own and that you will not be able to get her hair that colour, etc. etc. etc.

Sigh …

Now we know that correctors are mainly used for intensifying a colour by mixing it with the colour, or to do a colour correction by adding the contrasting colour to neutralize unwanted undertones.  But who has not tried using a corrector / intensifier on its own only to feel betrayed when it only lasts 2 or 3 washes, wishing that it could last longer.  So what if there was a way?

If you have pre-lightened hair and want to apply a vibrant colour, and have it last longer, try mixing it with a level 10 colour that already has that corrector’s undertone. For example… using Inebrya’s 10/11(has a blue undertone) with the blue corrector will give you a vibrant blue that will last longer because there is more pigment that can penetrate the hair with the blue corrector to give you that intense blue colour.  That will make the colour last longer. Or try Inebrya’s 10/22 (has a violet undertone) with the violet corrector for that intense violet.

If used by itself, the mixing ratio for the corrector is 1:2.

For use as a colour correction or intensifier add up to ¼ corrector / intensifier to the prepared color mix (normal ratio 1:1.5) without adding extra developer.

When used as a “fashion colour” mix the corrector / intensifier 1:1 with the base colour and add 1.5 times developer to the total colour mixture.

Remember the correctors are there to intensify or neutralize, so tell your client that it is not a permanent colour on its own and that she will still get fading, but with this mixture it will last longer.

So remember to breathe, inform your clients and do what you know best to do……

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7 tips to care for your hair this summer

By now we all have that summer feeling and counting the days until the holiday. But after our holiday we always end up frustrated with our hair…. it is dry, faded, unmanageable … Basically it looks like something out of a horror movie!

So here’s what you can do to prevent your hair from getting a summer smack down:

  1. Get rid of the split ends BEFORE you go on holiday

Before you go on holiday, book an appointment to get rid of any nasty ends.  That will prevent those ugly split ends splitting the hair shaft upwards and causing even more damage.

2. Cover it up or get that UV factor on

Just as you protect your face and body, your hair should not be any different. The UVA and UVB rays oxidizes the hair, making our colour fade.  Cover up with a nice scarf or hat, but if your prefer feeling the cool sea breeze through your hair, you need to use a UV filter.  So I use Inebrya Pro Colour shampoo and mask. Not only does it keep my hair from fading, it also contains UV protectors to protect my hair against harmful UV rays.

3. Protect, protect, protect!

The best protection is still a swim cap, but if you don’t like the pulling and sweating, protect your hair against chlorine and salt by wetting your hair thoroughly with clean tap water before you take the dive.  If the hair cuticle is already saturated with water, it will absorb less of the pool’s chemicals than when your hair is dry.  Putting on a conditioner or serum prior to swimming will also help to keep the damaging effect to the minimal. Inebrya has a wide variety of amazing serums that can be applied, and the Bi-phase leave-in conditioner will be an excellent sealant.

4. Lay off the shampoo

Although your hair might feel a bit greasier due to more sweating, any chlorine and salt water will clean your hair enough to skip shampooing a day or two.  Just make sure to rinse properly with lukewarm water after every swim.  You can also opt for a dry shampoo to further reduce stripping of natural oils.  The Inebrya Keratin Dry shampoo will gentle absorb excess dirt but will also help to restructure any damaged hair due.

5. Detangle

Seeing that pool and salt water will strip your hair from natural oils, it is imperative that you condition ASAP so as to seal the cuticle.  Leaving the cuticle open will lead to further colour fading, moisture loss and major tangles!  So apply a conditioner as soon as you finish your swim.  The Inebrya Argan Bi-phase conditioner is ideal, as it is a spray in a convenient bottle that you can carry around in your beach bag!   Instead of brushing, use a wide tooth comb to detangle the hair easier and to help avoid breakage.

6. Hydrate – from both the inside and out!

Our hair is mostly made up of water so make sure to keep the follicle hydrated by drinking lots of water.  Healthy hair needs a healthy follicle.  Keep the lengths and ends hydrated by using a moisturising treatment at least one a week.  You can also use a leave-in treatment in the hair overnight.  Apply and cover with a towel, and wake up the next morning with soft and smooth hair. Make sure to use a leave-in treatment and not a rinse off treatment for an overnight wrap – yes, read the instructions on the bottle!  Using a rinse-off treatment will end up drying your hair even more.

7. Lay off the heat styling

Beach waves are so in fashion now so you can really lay off the heat this holiday. Flat irons, hair dryers and tongs are some of the tools we really can avoid.  Rather go for a wash and wear look, or cover it up with a scarf or hat.

Looking after your hair during the summer holiday is easy if you follow these handy tips.  And it will be a lot easier for your wallet as well come January when we need to get back into work mode.  But no talking about work now – It’s summer baby!

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Quick and easy hair treatments now that spring is in the (h)air

So all of us needs a treatment now and then. Especially with the winter coming to an end and the summer approaching, we all like to have healthy hair with the “new” beginning of the cycle of life…

But…. We don’t have the time… and some treatments can be really time consuming. Even though treatments are so important for the beautiful hair ritual… you know, that “Hollywood hair” we all envy.

What about a 3-5 minutes hair treatment? Oh, yeah… that we can manage.

Inebrya hair masks can only take 5 minutes of our time… While we shave those winter legs… the treatment can do its job.  Now that is what we women like… multitasking…

With a wide variety of masks, we can choose the one that best suits our hair, Color mask for colour treated hair, Karyn for that deep shine and moisture, No yellow for that unwanted yellow undertones, Keratin for the chemically damaged hair, just to name a few…

Furthermore, Inebrya even has leave-in conditioners … so for those days we really just do not have the time, we have a solution… Ah… bliss….

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Step-by-step: Shecare professional protocol

Step 1:
Apply Shecare shampoo to damp hair. Massage gently. Rinse well. Repeat to open scales properly.
Step 2:
Divide hair in 4 sections. Spray the Shecare Reconstructor Spray over the hair strand by strand.
Step 3:
Massage hair carefully from ends to roots to facilitate penetration.
Step 4:
Cover with a cap and leave on for 5 minutes under a heat source. Do not rinse off.

Step 5:
Apply the Shecare Mask over the Shecare Reconstructor Spray, massaging strand by strand from ends to roots. Leave on for 5 minutes under a heat source.
Step 6:
Comb hair gently with an anti-static comb
Step 7:
Rinse thoroughly and style as usual.
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Step-by-Step: Pro-color protocol

Step 1: Apply the colour as usual.
Step 2: Rinse off the colour with abundant water.
Step 3: Pour into a bowl 15-20 ml Color Perfect Cream, mixing it with a few drops of Color Perfect Serum.
Step 4: Apply to all hair. Leave for 2 – 5 minutes. Rinse off.
Step 5: Only if there is scalp staining, proceed to wash with the Color Perfect Shampoo.
Step 6: Apply Color Perfect Conditioner to towel dried hair. Leave on for 2 – minutes. Rinse off.
Step 7: The Color Perfect Serum can be applied to wet hair before styling, or afterwards for a smoothing and anti-frizz effect.

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You probably have been using your shampoo and conditioner all wrong

Shampooing should be as easy as wet, lather, rinse, repeat. But what nobody tells you is that shampoo goes on the scalp and conditioner goes on the lengths and ends.

The correct way to shampoo is to wash only the first 5 cm of the hair at the scalp where sebaceous oils, sweat and dirt gather.  It really is not necessary to shampoo the lengths and ends of your hair as the shampoo that washes over the lengths and ends during rising should be sufficient to remove any dust, dirt and smog.  As a matter of fact, washing your lengths and ends will only remove essential moisture and natural oils, leading to dried out ends.

Shampoo is formulated to open up the cuticles to ensure proper cleansing. Leaving those cuticles open will be disastrous as precious moisture and colour will seep from the hair. That is where conditioner comes in. Conditioner tightly closes the cuticle to prevent moisture loss, fight frizz and to help with detangling. When conditioning, you should use sufficient conditioner to cover the lengths and ends to ensure proper closure of the cuticle over the entire hair shaft.

That is also why it is important to ALWAYS use a conditioner after shampooing.

Also for this same reason, it is difficult to understand why people would want to use two-in-one shampoo’s and conditioners. Are you closing or opening the cuticle? Are you cleansing or moisturising? I am sure the hair shaft is just as confused as I am.

As a result, on long hair, you would be using more conditioner than shampoo and your conditioner would be depleted first.  On short hair however, it would be a different story.

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Why Hydrogen Peroxide is added to hair colour

In order for permanent hair colour to work, it needs oxygen.  The harder you want the colour to work, the more oxygen you need. 

Hydrogen peroxide is an acid substance, pH 3.5 and is composed of 2 Hydrogen atoms (H) and 2 Oxygen atoms (O).  When the oxidising substance in the colour formula (i.e. ammonia) comes into contact with the Hydrogen peroxide, it releases the Oxygen from the compound. 

Hydrogen peroxide carries out the following functions:

Hydrogen peroxide balances the pH of the cosmetic colour

How much Hydrogen peroxide you need (the mixing ratio), depends on the pH of the colour formula.  Very alkaline substances damage the disulphide bonds in the hair structure causing damage and breakage.  The pH of the normal Inebrya tints are 9.5.  In order to balance the pH of the combination a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 is recommended.  This will lower the pH of the tint to an acceptable level to protect the integrity of the hair.  The Inebrya Superlighteners have a pH of 12 – thus more hydrogen peroxide is needed (a mixing ratio of 1:2) in order to bring down the pH of the mixture to within acceptable levels.

Hydrogen peroxide lifts the natural melanin from the hair

Hydrogen peroxide is labeled using either a %, a volume, or both.  Both measures indicate the concentration of oxygen available from the hydrogen peroxide contained in the bottle.

The % indicates the % of the content of the bottle that is pure Hydrogen peroxide.  The balance is water.  The Vol indicates the volume of oxygen that is released for every ml of contents.  For example, 1 ml of 20 Vol (6%) Hydrogen peroxide will release 20 ml of Oxygen. 

The concentration of oxygen in the Hydrogen peroxide will determine how much natural melanin will be removed from the hair.  Most hair colors require at least 1.5% peroxide to develop pigments contained in the color formulation.  Any remaining value in the peroxide creates the lift. 

Thus, the higher the volume or percentage, the more natural melanin will be removed and the lighter the hair will become.  Using too high of a volume developer can result in unnecessary lightening and major damage to the hair.  Too low a volume, and you may not get as light as you want.

Please keep in mind that hydrogen peroxide removes natural melanin and will not remove cosmetic colour.

Hydrogen peroxide oxidizes the pigments responsible for coloring the hair

When the Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with the colour formula, the oxidizing substance i.e. triggers the release of the oxygen that causes the colour molecules to polymerize and oxidise, getting trapped within the hair structure, thereby changing the colour of the hair.

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What to look for when choosing a permanent hair colour

Not all permanent cosmetic colour ranges are created equal.  But what criteria defines a high quality permanent hair colour?

  • The range should use ultrahigh-quality micro-pigments.  The smaller the size of the colour pigments, the better the penetration into the cortex prior to oxidation.
  • The colour pigments used should be free from mineral impurities to ensure excellent stability as well as colour duration.  You would not want any minerals effecting the end result that you are hoping to achieve.  Minerals, especially lead and aluminium, may furthermore causes allergic and chemical reactions.
  • All colour pigment molecules should be used during the colouring process, without waste, as any remaining pigments may alter the final result.  Most colour houses use actual weights of red, blue and yellow pigments in different ratios to obtain the nuances.  This, however, will lead to incorrect results as the pigments themselves are of different sizes and weights.  As a result, the weight of e.g. red pigments will lead to more molecules than required, as the red pigment molecule is smaller and lighter.  A Stoichiometric weighting system is more accurate.  This measures the actual number of molecules instead of the weight thereof, leading to more accurate ratios and more stable nuances.
  • All colours, especially fantasy colours, must already contain a component with a natural base.  This means that the colour does not have to be further mixed with a natural to obtain grey coverage.  It can be used as is.
  • It should have a delicate formula, free from p-Phenylenediamine (PpD) to ensure better scalp tolerance.  Look for brands that uses paratoluenediamine (PTD) instead of PpD, and for formulations with added Aloe Vera, to sooth scalp sensitivity.
  • If possible, look for brands that include natural oils and keratin in their permanent colour.  The oils maintain the moisture of the hair while the keratin protects the structure of the hair during the chemical process.  Good quality oils will also leave the hair with softness and shine.

Both the Inebrya and Bionic permanent colour ranges meet these criteria and is recommended to professional salons to ensure 100% grey coverage and colour durability.