So all of us needs a treatment now and then. Especially with
the winter coming to an end and the summer approaching, we all like to have
healthy hair with the “new” beginning of the cycle of life…
But…. We don’t have the time… and some treatments can be
really time consuming. Even though treatments are so important for the
beautiful hair ritual… you know, that “Hollywood hair” we all envy.
What about a 3-5 minutes hair treatment? Oh, yeah… that we
Inebrya hair masks can only take 5 minutes of our time…
While we shave those winter legs… the treatment can do its job. Now that is what we women like… multitasking…
With a wide variety of masks, we can choose the one that
best suits our hair, Color mask for colour treated hair, Karyn for that deep
shine and moisture, No yellow for that unwanted yellow undertones, Keratin for
the chemically damaged hair, just to name a few…
Furthermore, Inebrya even has leave-in conditioners … so for
those days we really just do not have the time, we have a solution… Ah… bliss….
Shampooing should be as easy as wet, lather, rinse, repeat. But what nobody tells you is that shampoo goes on the scalp and conditioner goes on the lengths and ends.
The correct way to shampoo is to wash only the first 5 cm of the hair at the scalp where sebaceous oils, sweat and dirt gather. It really is not necessary to shampoo the lengths and ends of your hair as the shampoo that washes over the lengths and ends during rising should be sufficient to remove any dust, dirt and smog. As a matter of fact, washing your lengths and ends will only remove essential moisture and natural oils, leading to dried out ends.
Shampoo is formulated to open up the cuticles to ensure proper cleansing. Leaving those cuticles open will be disastrous as precious moisture and colour will seep from the hair. That is where conditioner comes in. Conditioner tightly closes the cuticle to prevent moisture loss, fight frizz and to help with detangling. When conditioning, you should use sufficient conditioner to cover the lengths and ends to ensure proper closure of the cuticle over the entire hair shaft.
That is also why it is important to ALWAYS use a conditioner after shampooing.
Also for this same reason, it is difficult to understand why people would want to use two-in-one shampoo’s and conditioners. Are you closing or opening the cuticle? Are you cleansing or moisturising? I am sure the hair shaft is just as confused as I am.
As a result, on long hair, you would be using more conditioner than shampoo and your conditioner would be depleted first. On short hair however, it would be a different story.
In order for permanent hair colour to
work, it needs oxygen. The harder you
want the colour to work, the more oxygen you need.
Hydrogen peroxide is an acid substance, pH 3.5 and is composed of 2 Hydrogen atoms (H) and 2 Oxygen atoms (O). When the oxidising substance in the colour formula (i.e. ammonia) comes into contact with the Hydrogen peroxide, it releases the Oxygen from the compound.
Hydrogen peroxide carries out the following functions:
Hydrogen peroxide balances the pH of the cosmetic colour
How much Hydrogen peroxide you need (the mixing ratio), depends on the pH of the colour formula. Very alkaline substances damage the disulphide bonds in the hair structure causing damage and breakage. The pH of the normal Inebrya tints are 9.5. In order to balance the pH of the combination a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 is recommended. This will lower the pH of the tint to an acceptable level to protect the integrity of the hair. The Inebrya Superlighteners have a pH of 12 – thus more hydrogen peroxide is needed (a mixing ratio of 1:2) in order to bring down the pH of the mixture to within acceptable levels.
Hydrogen peroxide lifts the natural melanin from the hair
Hydrogen peroxide is labeled
using either a %, a volume, or both.
Both measures indicate the concentration
of oxygen available from the hydrogen peroxide contained in the bottle.
The % indicates the % of the content of the bottle that is pure Hydrogen peroxide. The balance is water. The Vol indicates the volume of oxygen that is released for every ml of contents. For example, 1 ml of 20 Vol (6%) Hydrogen peroxide will release 20 ml of Oxygen.
The concentration of oxygen in the Hydrogen peroxide will determine how much natural melanin will be removed from the hair. Most hair colors require at least 1.5% peroxide to develop pigments contained in the color formulation. Any remaining value in the peroxide creates the lift.
Thus, the higher the
volume or percentage, the more natural melanin will be removed and the lighter
the hair will become. Using too high of
a volume developer can result in unnecessary lightening and major damage to the
hair. Too low a volume, and you may not
get as light as you want.
Please keep in mind that hydrogen peroxide removes natural melanin and will not remove cosmetic colour.
Hydrogen peroxide oxidizes the pigments responsible for coloring the hair
When the Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with the colour formula, the oxidizing substance i.e. triggers the release of the oxygen that causes the colour molecules to polymerize and oxidise, getting trapped within the hair structure, thereby changing the colour of the hair.
Not all permanent cosmetic colour ranges are created equal. But what criteria defines a high quality permanent hair colour?
The range should use ultrahigh-quality micro-pigments. The smaller the size of the colour pigments, the better the penetration into the cortex prior to oxidation.
The colour pigments used should be free from mineral impurities to ensure excellent stability as well as colour duration. You would not want any minerals effecting the end result that you are hoping to achieve. Minerals, especially lead and aluminium, may furthermore causes allergic and chemical reactions.
All colour pigment molecules should be used during the colouring process, without waste, as any remaining pigments may alter the final result. Most colour houses use actual weights of red, blue and yellow pigments in different ratios to obtain the nuances. This, however, will lead to incorrect results as the pigments themselves are of different sizes and weights. As a result, the weight of e.g. red pigments will lead to more molecules than required, as the red pigment molecule is smaller and lighter. A Stoichiometric weighting system is more accurate. This measures the actual number of molecules instead of the weight thereof, leading to more accurate ratios and more stable nuances.
All colours, especially fantasy
colours, must already contain a component with a natural base. This means that the colour does not have to
be further mixed with a natural to obtain grey coverage. It can be used as is.
It should have a delicate formula,
free from p-Phenylenediamine (PpD) to ensure better scalp tolerance. Look for brands that uses paratoluenediamine
(PTD) instead of PpD, and for formulations with added Aloe Vera, to sooth scalp
If possible, look for brands
that include natural oils and keratin in their permanent colour. The oils maintain the moisture of the hair while
the keratin protects the structure of the hair during the chemical
process. Good quality oils will also
leave the hair with softness and shine.
Both the Inebrya and Bionic permanent
colour ranges meet these criteria and is recommended to professional salons to
ensure 100% grey coverage and colour durability.
What causes colour loss and what can I do to prevent it?
Before going into the reasons behind colour fading, and the
solutions, let’s look at the hair strand. Think of the hair as a tube. Now take
hair colour and think of each colour molecule as a marble. When you chemically alter your hair colour,
you are filling that tube with marbles. Over
time, as you wash, style and wear, the marbles are constantly being shed.
But what causes these marbles to shed? Well, here are the biggest culprits:
The absolute, number one reason for colour fading, is bad shampoo. They contain sulfates that are added to the shampoo to obtain proper cleaning, but it would be like washing your hair with Sunlight Liquid. Research has shown that sulfates are not necessary to get clean, oil-free hair. Rather opt for a sulfate free shampoo or a shampoo without the harshest two types of sulfates, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). We recommend the Karyn Deep Shine Shampoo which is Sulphate free or the Pro Colour Shampoo which is SLS/SLES free.
Over shampooing is another common reason
for colour fading. Not only will it fade your colour but it is extremely bad
for the health of the hair. Unless you have extremely oily scalp or use
products that leave a heavy residue on the hair, you do not have to shampoo
every day. Every 2-3 days is quite
sufficient. If you can stretch it any
more, even better. To help you with the stretch,
we recommend the Keratin Instant Dry Shampoo that you could use in-between
washes to keep the dirt at bay.
Styling with heat is another colour fading culprit. Those flat irons we all love so much are doing a number not only on the health of your hair but even more on the cosmetic colour. Heat damages the cuticle and exposes the cortex, allowing pigments to slip out. Use a heat protectant spray like the Style-in Thermal spray or a leave-in treatment like the Inebrya Black Pepper range. Not only is the Black Pepper a thermal protection system but the breakthrough technology will reconstruct and regenerate you hair while keeping it straight until your next wash, thus no need for the flat iron to tame the frizz.
We all know the damage that the harmful UV rays in sunlight can do to our skin. Our hair is even more exposed as it faces the harmful rays “head-on”. Cover up with a hat or scarf or if you do not want your beautiful mane to be hidden away, at least use a product with a good UV filter. Studies show that having a UV filter in a hair care product can reduce colour fading by up to 40%. Look for products containing ingredients like Benzyl Salicylate or Panthenol. Most leave-in conditioners and serums contain a UV filter. We recommend the Pro Color Serum or the Argan Bi-phase conditioner (for finer hair).
Yes, those lights you sit under all day at work will fade your hair colour as it also contains harmful UV rays. Using a product with UV protection will combat the colour loss.
Chemicals in your water, such as chlorine, will also fade your hair colour. Chlorine is highly alkaline and will open the hair cuticle, exposing the cortex and allowing cosmetic colour to seep out. In such a case it is necessary to use a conditioner with a very low pH to properly seal the cuticle. We recommend the Pro Colour Cream – with its pH of 3.5 it will closely seal the cuticle, keeping all pigments nicely inside the shaft.
Everyone enjoys a crisp, fall breeze, but are we prepared for the colour fading that comes with it? Much like washing your hair, high winds and drier temperatures can be especially damaging if your hair isn’t properly prepped for the day. Before heading out, lightly mist your hair down and apply a moisturizing serum to your lengths and ends.
Poor colour service
If you colour your hair at home with box
colour or if an un-qualified person performs the colour service for you, you could
be faced with major problems:
Improper consideration of hair porosity: Prior to colouring, it’s important to determine the health of the hair. Damaged hair is very porous which means that it will grab the colour quickly and as a result would come out darker than you anticipated. Also, porous hair will lose the cosmetic pigments quicker, thus faster colour fading. For optimum colour results hair needs to be in a healthy condition. So if you want your colour to last a protein or moisturizing treatment may be needed before you colour. This will help “fill in” empty spaces in the hair and give the colour molecules a better anchor point, resulting in longer colour results.
Poor quality pigments: In order or save cost and make products financially viable, manufacturers sometimes need to compensate on the quality of the ingredients. So they substitute pure pigments with colour laden with metals and/or pPD. But if you use poor quality pigments you cannot expect high quality cosmetic colour. And if your cosmetic colour is poor to begin with, you cannot really expect it to last.
Insufficient processing time: A common reason behind fast-fading hair colour is insufficient processing time, meaning the hair colour did not stay on long enough. This especially holds true if you or your client have grey hair. Grey hair cuticles are tightly packed down, and take longer to open and absorb artificial hair colour molecules. The box does not clearly specify what to do in cases like these and you might not get the result that you were looking for.
Moral of the story: Get a professional to perform the colour service. That is what they are trained to do.
Shampooing too soon after a colour service
Remember to wait at least 24 hours after a colour service before washing your hair. Shampoo has an alkaline pH which will open the cuticle, and you want to keep it closed for as long as possible.
So the gist of it all is: Healthy hair will maintain colour
longer than damaged, dry hair. But keep in mind that all hair colour will fade
to some degree. How you treat your hair
will determine the extent of hair colour fading.
Great hair is something most pregnant woman rave about. Your hair appears shinier and healthier. Some woman experience changes in hair
texture, such as more or less natural curl.
And many moms-to-be notice a fuller head of hair.
That is because during pregnancy you have increased levels of estrogen and androgen. Every strand of hair goes through a three-stage cycle of growth, transition and rest before it falls out. Normally, we shed up to 100 hairs a day, but the extra estrogen produced during pregnancy prolongs the growth stage, resulting in very little shedding.
But it could also go the other way: Some woman see drastic changes when their
light hair turns darker, curly hair falls flat, or pencil straight hair turns
curly. Some pregnant woman also notice
new hair growing in unwanted places, and can appear thicker and darker.
But how can hair suddenly become darker? The culprit: Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH). These levels are raised during pregnancy (and
in woman using birth control pills). MSH
is a collective name for a group of peptide hormones produced by the skin,
pituitary gland and hypothalamus. In response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation its
production by the skin and pituitary is enhanced, and this plays a key role in
producing coloured pigmentation found in the skin, hair and eyes. Couple that with excess adrenocorticotropic
hormone (ACTH) found with Cushing’s disease and your hair colour could darken
This would also affect the bleach and colour services performed post-partum, as there would be more pigment in the hair shaft than normal, so your bleach or colour service could take longer than usual or could not be as effective as before your pregnancy.
Studies show our bodies absorb very little of the chemicals in hair dyes (as well as those of bleach, relaxers or perms), so three or four trips to the salon during a pregnancy is deemed safe. But always consult with your doctor first. If you do decide to colour your hair while pregnant, it might come out a different colour than the one you expect. Due to the estrogen the hair may be stronger and more resistant to the colour and therefore not take as well as usual (be lighter), or it will be more porous and absorb the colour potentially making it darker than expected.
Good news is: Most
often the change is temporary, occurring during the pregnancy only. When your hormone roller coaster levels out
about six to nine months postpartum – or possibly later if you’re breastfeeding,
your hair’s growth cycle will go back to normal. Body hair will thin out and lighten; that
massive mane will go back to its usual size. For some woman, this transition is
dramatic, resulting in a condition called telogen effluvium, where hair may
come out in handfuls. Some new moms even experience small temporary bald spots
for a few months.
Will it happen to you? While every pregnancy is different, one thing’s for sure: topsy-turvy hormones. Whether the good, the bad and the ugly, we as woman experience plenty of pregnancy – related hormonal changes as constant surprises.
There are a wide variety of products available to make the transitions up to and after pregnancy a little more bearable.
Should you want to colour your hair during pregnancy the safest option will be ammonia free colour such as the Inebrya Bionic Colour Range. This range is also pPD free.
For home care opt for products that are certified organic and are free of harmful ingredients such as SLS/SLES or parabens. Inebrya provides 3 options: The Karyn and the Green ranges are safest.
If you prefer the smooth, frizz-free look, stay away from smoothing systems containing formaldehyde. Opt for healthier options like the Inebrya Black Pepper range. This range is 100% Vegan, Organic, Paraben free and does not contain any formaldehyde or formaldehyde releasing agents.
Treat yourself to a nice treatment now and again to ensure that you hair remains healthy and moisturised. The Inebrya Karyn Range is 100% Vegan, only uses organic ingredients and are SLS/SLES, Paraffin, Silicone, Sulphate and Paraben free.
To combat excessive hair loss after your pregnancy invest in good quality hair loss prevention systems such as the Energy Lotion and the Tricovit Patches.
Some of the hair changes that happen during and after
pregnancy can be distressing, but it’s important to remember that they’re temporary
and common. But if the growth – or loss
– is significant or really bothering you, there are professional treatments
available; you don’t have to just live with it. If you’re concerned, talk to
your doctor for more information.
What can I do to extend the lifespan of my hair extensions? Here are a few home-care tips to ensure that your hair extensions last as long as possible.
When washing, always work from roots to tips, in the direction of the cuticle.
Wash underneath every tape to remove the natural oils from the scalp that could loosen the tapes.
Use hydrating shampoos and treatments on your extensions as the ends tend to dry out over time due to styling tools, brushing, climate and UV rays. We recommend the Inebrya Green Moisture range as it is packed with moisture to keep the hair soft and hydrated.
Avoid getting conditioners, treatments and oils on the tapes, as it will cause the tape to loosen from the hair. These products are meant for lengths and ends, not roots.
Avoid products that contain sulfates, ammonia and parabens. The Inebrya Green Moisture range is free of all these nasty little ingredients.
Use a good hair serum to moisturise and seal the ends.
Be very gentle when brushing as to not add
unnecessary tension on the hair follicles.
Start from the bottom and work your way up while
holding the top part of the hair to avoid tension on the scalp and tape.
Try to brush as close to the tape or ring as
possible without damaging it.
Do not brush extensions when wet.
Do not tie up your hair shortly after
installation, as it may cause unnecessary tension on the cuticle.
Do not sleep with wet hair extensions, as they can tangle easily.
For sleeping, plait or tie hair up in a loose bun. It is recommended to sleep on a satin pillow case to prevent tangling.
Use styling products that are alcohol-free and that do not leave a build-up or residue. The Inebrya Style-IN range has a variety of products to choose from.
When using straightening or curling irons, avoid using high heat settings (<180˚C).
When using straightening or curling irons, always use a good thermal protector. Use the Style-IN Thermo spray or the Inebrya Liss One to protect your hair.
The hair should be 100% dry before using straightening or curling irons. Never use them on wet hair.
Before swimming, wet hair thoroughly with clean water.
Apply a good hair serum or oil to wet hair to lock in as much moisture as possible. Here I would recommend the Inebrya Argan Oil Pro Age Treatment or the Inebrya Argan Age Frizz free spray.
Immediately after swimming, rinse the hair with clear water and apply a leave-in conditioner.
Hair extensions cost a lot and cannot be replaced easily without careful budgeting and saving. Make yours last as long as possible. Look after it as if it is your own hair.
Information courtesy of Juanè Jacobs: Stay Beautiful Hair Extensions
Nowadays we use so many different cosmetics on our bodies. But shockingly we never research which of these ingredients are harmful and blindly trust that manufacturers won’t include bad ingredients in their products. But why is it important for us to know the ingredients? Well, it is sad to say that some of these products that we use every day can lead to neurotoxicity, lung toxicity, and some are even carcinogenic (known to cause cancer).
Some of the ingredients you can’t even pronounce so we tend to slip up on checking the back of the bottle. So I am here to warn you against some of the most common potentially harmful ingredients to avoid. These include:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Polyetheylene Glycols (PEG)
Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde releasing agents
These are 15 of the most harmful ingredients that you may find in your cosmetics. So what to do???
Opt for natural or vegan products.
The Inebrya retail ranges offer so much versatility so that if your health is important to you, you will find a product within the range that will cater to your needs.
The Inebrya Green range uses eco-certified ingredients and is SLS/SLES free, Sodium Chloride free, MEA/DEA/TEA free, Paraben free, Colorant free and is tested for quantities of Nickel, Cobalt and Chrome.
Other ranges that are SLS/SLES free include the Keratin, Shecare and Pro Colour ranges.
So there are alternative products and we can do our part to prevent diseases. Choose healthy and keep an eye out for the “Watch List” ingredients as listed above. Limit your exposure.