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Prevention is better than cure: The new Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener protect

The two biggest components in hair are keratin (a protein) and water, with keratin being the most significant. Keratin chains keep its structure via different bonds, being Saline bonds, Hydrogen bonds and disulphide bridges.  Chemical processes, heat styling, poor products, environmental factors, etc. can damage these bonds and result in different degrees of damaged hair.

Most new hair products released in the last few years focussed on the re-structuring of the disulphide bridges during and after the chemical service.  New research has shown that we cannot focus on the disulphide bridges alone but should in fact focus on the denaturation of the complete protein instead.

And that is where the new Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener comes in.  The Inebrya laboratory has functionalized an Osmo Protector active ingredient that can maintain the osmotic balance of hair proteins, protecting not only the sulphur bridges but also the keratin structure, which results in maximum hair hydration during and after the bleaching service.  The protection granted by the new patent pending system does not result from a strengthening of a single bond, but from a global efficacy that prevents the hair from losing its osmotic balance during the bleaching service.  In this way proteins do not undergo denaturation and the hair fibre is not damaged.

Remember that idiom “Prevention is better than cure”?  Well, now with the Blondesse Miracle Gentle Lightener you can prevent the damage from occurring in the first place and won’t have to waste time and money fixing it later.

This new bleach is ideal for people who have frequent bleaching and lightening services. Its formula is enriched with violet micro-pigments that neutralises the undesired pigment to achieve up to 7 levels of lightening. 

The powder is fragrance free to fully respect the scalp and to prevent allergies or intolerances to synthetic fragrances in clients and staff.  Thanks to new technology packaging, the packaging releases a pleasant fragrance through coloured pearls inside the cap.

The product achieves the best bleaching performances in a single step, keeping the physiological conditions of the hair intact, leaving the hair visibly restructured, shiny, controlled and moisturised.

Silicon free / Vegan / Paraffin free

 Further reading recommended:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denaturation_(biochemistry)

https://opentextbc.ca/biology/chapter/22-1-osmoregulation-and-osmotic-balance/

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Can I apply for a permit to perform hairdressing services?

There seems to be a lot of confusion about the issuing of permits to provide essential goods and services.  But in short:

  • “Haircare” is defined as an essential good.
  • But hairdressing services are NOT an essential service.
  • To sell haircare you must have a permit.
  • Permits are not only for companies or closed corporations.  Sole proprietors can obtain permits as well.
  • You cannot obtain a permit for the provision of hairdressing services, only for the retail of haircare.

Herewith the details in support of our summary:

First of all, we need to know what “essential goods and services” are.  The list of essential goods and services are defined in the Disaster Management Act and the Regulations thereto.  Annexure B includes “Personal toiletries, including haircare, body and face washes…”.  Also now, with the move to Level 4 from 1 May, “personal toiletries, including haircare…” is included under E.  Wholesale and retail trade.

So, you may continue to sell haircare to your clients.

Do you need a permit to do that?  Yes you do.

In a guideline issued by the Department of Trade and Industry (http://www.thedtic.gov.za/news2020/Guideline_Permit_Essential_Services.pdf) it is clearly stated that should you with to supply essential goods or services during the lockdown levels, you must have a permit.  But it is not just companies or closed corporations that may have permits, it is also available to sole proprietors.

Companies and closed corporations that are registered with the CIPC MAY (it is not compulsory) apply for certification through the Bizportal website (http://www.bizportal.gov.za). 

Sole proprietors can still obtain a permit, by completing Form 2 of the Level 4 Regulations for them and their staff.  This is your permit to retail haircare to your clients.  When stopped by enforcement officials, you must be able to produce this permit and a photo ID.  The head of the business must ensure full compliance with all requirements of the Act and will be held responsible if they issue permits without being allowed to.

You do not have to register a company to be able to obtain a permit.

For an editable Word version of Form 2 that you can copy and paste on your letterhead, email finance@nebeau.co.za to request a softcopy.

Can you apply for a permit to perform hairdressing services?  No, you cannot.  As hairdressing services are not allowed under Level 4.  No permit will allow you to perform services that are specifically excluded from the current level.

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Losing hair more than usual?

Taking a shower and clumps of hair gets tangled in your hands or stick to every part of your body can be more than enough to ruin your day and send you into a stress frenzy about going bold.  A few hours later and you are having a full blown panic attack because Google said you have cancer or one or other fatal illness.  Just breathe and relax… it could as simple as seasonal hair loss.  Yes, it is actually a thing.

Let’s have a quick look at the life cycle of hair…

It’s divided into three phases:

Anagen (growth) phase: Average hair growth is about 1cm per month, a bit faster in summer. This phase lasts about 2 to 6 years.

Catagen (intermediate) phase: This is a short transitional phase at the end of the growth phase that lasts approximately 10 days.

Telogen (resting/end) phase: This is the resting phase where the hair shaft is released and falls out.  We shed about 50 to 100 hairs per day.  The hair follicle remains inactive for 3 months and the entire process is repeated.  Each hair follicle goes through the growth phase at different times… thank goodness, otherwise we would’ve been bold for a few months!

Scientific studies have found that hair loss is higher in summer and late fall.  Funny enough, people search for “Hair loss” on Google more in the summer, confirming that the science is aligned to actual experiences. 

So why is it that we experience more hair loss during summer?

Some researchers suggested that hair (and fur) provides warmth, which is not necessary during summer months. So, it’s possible that humans evolved to grow more hair throughout the winter, when it can act as a “blanket” against the miserable cold, and shed it in the summer when we don’t need it anymore.

So, losing more hair during a specific season is pretty normal. There are certain stressors that have an impact on hair loss (like giving birth, losing large amounts of weight, undergoing surgery, having thyroid problems and so on). If you are experiencing abnormal hair loss it is always recommended to go see a doctor.

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Why the MADE IN ITALY or MADE IN SPAIN certification actually gives you peace of mind

Did you know that the European Union has banned more than 1 000 ingredients from use in cosmetics?

The FDA (in the USA) does not require companies to test cosmetic products for safety and do not approve products or ingredients before they go on the market. So mostly cosmetic companies may use any ingredient or raw material in their products without government review or approval. The US cosmetic industry polices itself through its Cosmetics Ingredient Review panel – which in >30 years has only declared 11 ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe. These restrictions are, however, not binding on cosmetic companies.

The FDA has only prohibited a limited number of ingredients such as:

* Bithionol

* Chlorofluorocarbon propellants

* Chloroform

* Halogenated salicylanilides

* Methylene chloride

* Vinyl chloride

* Zirconium-containing complexes

* Prohibited cattle materials

By buying from reputable companies that falls under the jurisdiction of the European Union, you can have peace of mind that the ingredients have been strictly tested and approved not to be harmful. Furthermore, the EU disallows and inspects any form of testing on animals.

So where are you buying your cosmetics from?

References: FDA2005,2010 FDA2005 FDA2000a CIR2012 FDA2012 (www.ewg.org)

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When to use the No-Yellow vs the No-Yellow Light Blue

Although these two treatment ranges are very similar, the main difference is in the colour of the pigments contained in the products. The No-Yellow uses violet pigments to tone down yellow tones, for an ash violet effect. Inebrya added blue pigment to the No-Yellow Light Blue. So the latter uses violet & blue pigments to tone down yellow-orange tones, for an icy blue effect.

For an ashier look, and keeping the grey undertone the No-Yellow will be perfect for you, because the violet pigment is a more dominant pigment.   But if you want a more subtle Icy Blue Blonde the No-Yellow Light blue will be the go to product as it neutralizes unwanted tones, but will not stain the hair.

It is not a requirement that you use the shampoo and mask/conditioner together and you may opt to use them separately. But the combination of the two will have an improved result as the mask and conditioner magnify the effect of the shampoo.

You can use it every time you want to neutralise unwanted yellow or yellow-orange tones.  Find the frequency that works best for your hair.  If you do not have to use it every time, you can use it with a normal shampoo and conditioner.

If your hair is very porous, you may experience pigment overload that will reduce afterward through normal washing but you may have a purple or light blue undertone initially.

Some clients want to leave in the No-Yellow shampoo for longer than the advised 1 – 5 minutes to get an improved result.  However, this is not advised as the combination of ingredients have been tested for optimum results within the time frame advised.  However, the No-Yellow conditioner / mask may be left on for up to 10 minutes, so if you want to walk around the house with your anti-yellow on, opt for the conditioner / mask as it is softer on the hair as it contains nourishing and hydrating ingredients.

So to help you choose which range is better suited for your hair, we include a table to help you decide:

I want to maintain my natural grey hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I want to maintain my silver / ash cosmetic colourNo-yellow
I want my hair white, not greyNo-yellow Light Blue
I do not want to risk having purple hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I have lots of yellow undertones in my hairNo-yellow
I have more orange undertones in my hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I want a very strong pigmentNo-yellow

Both of these ranges nourishes and moisturises the hair to leave it soft and shiny for that perfect blonde you’ve always wanted. So it should really be the undertone and condition of your hair that determine which one to use.

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You probably have been using your shampoo and conditioner all wrong

Shampooing should be as easy as wet, lather, rinse, repeat. But what nobody tells you is that shampoo goes on the scalp and conditioner goes on the lengths and ends.

The correct way to shampoo is to wash only the first 5 cm of the hair at the scalp where sebaceous oils, sweat and dirt gather.  It really is not necessary to shampoo the lengths and ends of your hair as the shampoo that washes over the lengths and ends during rising should be sufficient to remove any dust, dirt and smog.  As a matter of fact, washing your lengths and ends will only remove essential moisture and natural oils, leading to dried out ends.

Shampoo is formulated to open up the cuticles to ensure proper cleansing. Leaving those cuticles open will be disastrous as precious moisture and colour will seep from the hair. That is where conditioner comes in. Conditioner tightly closes the cuticle to prevent moisture loss, fight frizz and to help with detangling. When conditioning, you should use sufficient conditioner to cover the lengths and ends to ensure proper closure of the cuticle over the entire hair shaft.

That is also why it is important to ALWAYS use a conditioner after shampooing.

Also for this same reason, it is difficult to understand why people would want to use two-in-one shampoo’s and conditioners. Are you closing or opening the cuticle? Are you cleansing or moisturising? I am sure the hair shaft is just as confused as I am.

As a result, on long hair, you would be using more conditioner than shampoo and your conditioner would be depleted first.  On short hair however, it would be a different story.

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How to beat the VAT increase

The VAT rate has been increased to 15% from 1 April. This means you will be paying 1% more on all your purchases from suppliers. That means 1% more on your stock, electricity, your salon rent … basically anything that you buy from a VAT vendor.

But it does not necessarily mean that you can increase your selling prices with 1% and you might have to absorb this if an increase will have a negative impact on the demand for your product or service.

Because we value you as our business partner, Nebeau has decided to absorb the additional 1% increase on our products and will not let the rate increase flow through to you. That means that we will be dropping our prices excluding VAT to ensure that our final price including VAT remains unchanged.

This is not just a once-off monthly special. This is what we will do from now on.

Just another way that we are helping you do better business.

For more information on what we offer, visit https://www.nebeau.co.za.