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Quick and easy hair treatments now that spring is in the (h)air

So all of us needs a treatment now and then. Especially with the winter coming to an end and the summer approaching, we all like to have healthy hair with the “new” beginning of the cycle of life…

But…. We don’t have the time… and some treatments can be really time consuming. Even though treatments are so important for the beautiful hair ritual… you know, that “Hollywood hair” we all envy.

What about a 3-5 minutes hair treatment? Oh, yeah… that we can manage.

Inebrya hair masks can only take 5 minutes of our time… While we shave those winter legs… the treatment can do its job.  Now that is what we women like… multitasking…

With a wide variety of masks, we can choose the one that best suits our hair, Color mask for colour treated hair, Karyn for that deep shine and moisture, No yellow for that unwanted yellow undertones, Keratin for the chemically damaged hair, just to name a few…

Furthermore, Inebrya even has leave-in conditioners … so for those days we really just do not have the time, we have a solution… Ah… bliss….

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Why the MADE IN ITALY or MADE IN SPAIN certification actually gives you peace of mind

Did you know that the European Union has banned more than 1 000 ingredients from use in cosmetics?

The FDA (in the USA) does not require companies to test cosmetic products for safety and do not approve products or ingredients before they go on the market. So mostly cosmetic companies may use any ingredient or raw material in their products without government review or approval. The US cosmetic industry polices itself through its Cosmetics Ingredient Review panel – which in >30 years has only declared 11 ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe. These restrictions are, however, not binding on cosmetic companies.

The FDA has only prohibited a limited number of ingredients such as:

* Bithionol

* Chlorofluorocarbon propellants

* Chloroform

* Halogenated salicylanilides

* Methylene chloride

* Vinyl chloride

* Zirconium-containing complexes

* Prohibited cattle materials

By buying from reputable companies that falls under the jurisdiction of the European Union, you can have peace of mind that the ingredients have been strictly tested and approved not to be harmful. Furthermore, the EU disallows and inspects any form of testing on animals.

So where are you buying your cosmetics from?

References: FDA2005,2010 FDA2005 FDA2000a CIR2012 FDA2012 (www.ewg.org)

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Step-by-step: Shecare professional protocol

Step 1:
Apply Shecare shampoo to damp hair. Massage gently. Rinse well. Repeat to open scales properly.
Step 2:
Divide hair in 4 sections. Spray the Shecare Reconstructor Spray over the hair strand by strand.
Step 3:
Massage hair carefully from ends to roots to facilitate penetration.
Step 4:
Cover with a cap and leave on for 5 minutes under a heat source. Do not rinse off.

Step 5:
Apply the Shecare Mask over the Shecare Reconstructor Spray, massaging strand by strand from ends to roots. Leave on for 5 minutes under a heat source.
Step 6:
Comb hair gently with an anti-static comb
Step 7:
Rinse thoroughly and style as usual.
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Common scalp conditions: Causes and treatments

Have you experienced itchy scalp or hair loss? Ever wondered what the cause may be? Scalp diseases are becoming a common health problem these days and effects people of all ages and genders.

The scalp is quite different from other parts of our skin.  It features a large number of receptors and secretes more sebum in comparison to other parts of the body.  The hairy scalp is quite a warm environment – an ideal place for the development of fungi and micro-organisms. If you add de-hydration caused by frequent use of highly cleansing and drying shampoos, as well as the lack of proper nutrition and allergies, it turns out that the scalp is a part of our skin that is the most susceptible to various diseases.   

Here are some of the most common scalp conditions, its causes and treatments:

Scalp mycosis

Excessive hair loss, as well as flaking, itching, and burning, are the first symptoms of this fungal infection. Thus fungus especially attacks people with reduced immunity. Importantly, fungal changes affect not just the skin but also the hair itself. In the case of this condition, it is very important to react immediately after discovering the first symptoms, because this way, the treatment of mycosis will be easier.

The mycosis of the scalp has several varieties:

  • Trichophytosis – is manifested by dark spots and partial hair loss, which results in the appearance of bald, itchy patches on the head;
  • Microsporosis – shows spots on the skin similar to the above-mentioned, but it spreads much faster than other types of this disease;
  • Favus – is manifested by the loss of most hair and yellow exfoliation on the skin, which is not only itchy but also has a very unpleasant odour.

Accurate diagnosis is the first step to introducing proper care and treatment. It is necessary to use preparations with fungicidal components (usually oral), sanitizing ointments, as well as shampoo with ketoconazole. Frequent hair trimming and replacement of all existing hair accessories such as brushes, combs, etc. are also necessary.

Seborrheic dermatitis

This is a scalp disease often mentioned as a type of dandruff, because one of the symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis is strong skin exfoliation. The biggest problem resulting from this disease is chronic inflammation with a tendency to recur, as well as erythema and crusts forming on the surface of the skin. Interestingly, seborrheic dermatitis is seasonal – it’s more likely to appear in autumn and winter. What’s more, there is no single cause – the disease is the result of many changes including hormonal, immunological as well as external (fungi, diet, and hygiene).

Scalp psoriasis

One of the most serious scalp diseases is psoriasis. This is an autoimmune disorder, which means that the immune system attacks other cells in the body. Scalp psoriasis is manifested by disturbed processes of renewal and exfoliation of the epidermis. The skin cells multiply too quickly, the epidermis grows, and then it strips and forms large scales. The symptoms of psoriasis cannot be mistaken for any other. Unfortunately, the treatment of this condition is very difficult – you cannot use any oily and thick preparations on your hair, only drugs prescribed by a dermatologist and special shampoos.

Dandruff

When discussing scalp diseases, it is impossible not to mention dandruff. It is an uncomfortable condition that, unfortunately, affects more and more people. Sometimes it is a once-off problem, but it can be recurring. The causes of dandruff are also different: from genetic conditions, stress and hormonal disorders, to mistakes in daily care and … fungi!

There are several types of dandruff:

  • Dry Skin-related Dandruff – the most common variety, without inflammation, manifested by small, white patches of dry skin that peels off and falls off;
  • Oily Scalp-related Dandruff – it often develops from dry dandruff, is accompanied by inflammation and pruritus, is manifested by yellow scales on the skin and greasy hair;
  • Tinea versicolor – is a fungal infection of the skin, which is manifested by dark or yellowish discolorations on the skin (not necessarily only on the head) and pruritus;
  • Pityriasis rosea – often affects children and adolescents, it is manifested by tiny red spots on various parts of the body, which disappear spontaneously after about a month;
  • Seborrheic dandruff – a variation of oil-related dandruff treated as an allergy, which is also accompanied by seborrhoea, without yellow flakes of the skin, but with white and dry flakes.

The easiest way to get rid of dandruff is to use anti-dandruff shampoos, but it is worth remembering that these can be addictive.  My word of advice: it’s best to go to the doctor.

Tinea capitis

Ringworm of the scalp is a fungal infection of the scalp and hair shafts. The signs and symptoms of ringworm of the scalp may vary, but it usually appears as itchy, scaly, bald patches on the head. Ringworm of the scalp, a highly contagious infection, is most common in toddlers and school-age children.

Choice of treatment for tinea capitis is determined by the species of fungus concerned and the degree of inflammation.  Topical treatment alone usually is ineffective and is not recommended for the management of tinea capitis. In these cases, please consult with a doctor.

Pediculosis

Schools are the easiest place to get infected with lice, a disease for which human louse is responsible.  This is a small insect that feeds on blood from the scalp. The first step in the treatment of head lice is, unfortunately … hair cutting. Subsequently, pharmacotherapy should be used, e.g. in the form of permethrin shampoos. One of the effective gadgets that help you get rid of lice is an electronic comb. However, of course, you can also reach for homemade ways to get rid of lice (e.g. essential oils, vinegar, rosemary rinses) and ensure proper hygiene.

Alopecia

Alopecia is another serious scalp disease. Of course, this is mainly about hair loss in far too large and uncontrolled quantities. The most common causes of baldness include stress, iron, and folic acid deficiency, pregnancy, chronic illness, taking medicines, and hormonal disorders, e.g. hypothyroidism.

Alopecia may have several forms:

  • Androgenic alopecia – Pattern hair loss, can be male- and female- (MPHL or FPHL).  This is definitely the most common cause of hair loss and effects up to 70% of men and 40% of women).  This results from changes in the dihydrotestosterone level;
  • Alopecia areata – an autoimmune disease of the scalp, in which the hair falls out in whole parts, leaving hairless areas;
  • Telogen effluvium – it is most often caused by the disappearance of hair follicles as a result of hormonal disorders, poisoning, infection or the use of certain drugs;
  • Cicatricle Alopecia – alopecia caused by chronic inflammation, congenital defects, cancer or mechanical injuries, the effect of which is irreversible.

Antibiotic therapy is the most common treatment for alopecia. You can also use hair ampules, herbal scalp lotions, face masks and natural oils that, when massaged into the scalp, restore the natural activity of hair follicles and stimulate the work of hair bulbs.

Treating of scalp conditions depend on the disease. Some products will help overcome dandruff, while others will serve to get rid of lice. Each case is worth consulting with a trichologist or dermatologist to choose the right methods of treatment.

However, you can follow a number of rules that are worth incorporating in the daily care in all of the cases. Diseases of the scalp significantly weaken and irritate it, which is why a good solution is to alleviate these irritations and provide the skin with everything that is needed – vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, humectants.

  • Make sure to provide an optimal hydration of the scalp, it cannot be too dry.
  • Use only gentle shampoos for hair and scalp washing.
  • Avoid things that can irritate, for instance, cosmetics with alcohol, styling cosmetics.
  • Reduce blow-drying, straightening, and hot styling.
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Step-by-Step: Pro-color protocol

Step 1: Apply the colour as usual.
Step 2: Rinse off the colour with abundant water.
Step 3: Pour into a bowl 15-20 ml Color Perfect Cream, mixing it with a few drops of Color Perfect Serum.
Step 4: Apply to all hair. Leave for 2 – 5 minutes. Rinse off.
Step 5: Only if there is scalp staining, proceed to wash with the Color Perfect Shampoo.
Step 6: Apply Color Perfect Conditioner to towel dried hair. Leave on for 2 – minutes. Rinse off.
Step 7: The Color Perfect Serum can be applied to wet hair before styling, or afterwards for a smoothing and anti-frizz effect.

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When to use the No-Yellow vs the No-Yellow Light Blue

Although these two treatment ranges are very similar, the main difference is in the colour of the pigments contained in the products. The No-Yellow uses violet pigments to tone down yellow tones, for an ash violet effect. Inebrya added blue pigment to the No-Yellow Light Blue. So the latter uses violet & blue pigments to tone down yellow-orange tones, for an icy blue effect.

For an ashier look, and keeping the grey undertone the No-Yellow will be perfect for you, because the violet pigment is a more dominant pigment.   But if you want a more subtle Icy Blue Blonde the No-Yellow Light blue will be the go to product as it neutralizes unwanted tones, but will not stain the hair.

It is not a requirement that you use the shampoo and mask/conditioner together and you may opt to use them separately. But the combination of the two will have an improved result as the mask and conditioner magnify the effect of the shampoo.

You can use it every time you want to neutralise unwanted yellow or yellow-orange tones.  Find the frequency that works best for your hair.  If you do not have to use it every time, you can use it with a normal shampoo and conditioner.

If your hair is very porous, you may experience pigment overload that will reduce afterward through normal washing but you may have a purple or light blue undertone initially.

Some clients want to leave in the No-Yellow shampoo for longer than the advised 1 – 5 minutes to get an improved result.  However, this is not advised as the combination of ingredients have been tested for optimum results within the time frame advised.  However, the No-Yellow conditioner / mask may be left on for up to 10 minutes, so if you want to walk around the house with your anti-yellow on, opt for the conditioner / mask as it is softer on the hair as it contains nourishing and hydrating ingredients.

So to help you choose which range is better suited for your hair, we include a table to help you decide:

I want to maintain my natural grey hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I want to maintain my silver / ash cosmetic colourNo-yellow
I want my hair white, not greyNo-yellow Light Blue
I do not want to risk having purple hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I have lots of yellow undertones in my hairNo-yellow
I have more orange undertones in my hairNo-yellow Light Blue
I want a very strong pigmentNo-yellow

Both of these ranges nourishes and moisturises the hair to leave it soft and shiny for that perfect blonde you’ve always wanted. So it should really be the undertone and condition of your hair that determine which one to use.

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You probably have been using your shampoo and conditioner all wrong

Shampooing should be as easy as wet, lather, rinse, repeat. But what nobody tells you is that shampoo goes on the scalp and conditioner goes on the lengths and ends.

The correct way to shampoo is to wash only the first 5 cm of the hair at the scalp where sebaceous oils, sweat and dirt gather.  It really is not necessary to shampoo the lengths and ends of your hair as the shampoo that washes over the lengths and ends during rising should be sufficient to remove any dust, dirt and smog.  As a matter of fact, washing your lengths and ends will only remove essential moisture and natural oils, leading to dried out ends.

Shampoo is formulated to open up the cuticles to ensure proper cleansing. Leaving those cuticles open will be disastrous as precious moisture and colour will seep from the hair. That is where conditioner comes in. Conditioner tightly closes the cuticle to prevent moisture loss, fight frizz and to help with detangling. When conditioning, you should use sufficient conditioner to cover the lengths and ends to ensure proper closure of the cuticle over the entire hair shaft.

That is also why it is important to ALWAYS use a conditioner after shampooing.

Also for this same reason, it is difficult to understand why people would want to use two-in-one shampoo’s and conditioners. Are you closing or opening the cuticle? Are you cleansing or moisturising? I am sure the hair shaft is just as confused as I am.

As a result, on long hair, you would be using more conditioner than shampoo and your conditioner would be depleted first.  On short hair however, it would be a different story.

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Why Hydrogen Peroxide is added to hair colour

In order for permanent hair colour to work, it needs oxygen.  The harder you want the colour to work, the more oxygen you need. 

Hydrogen peroxide is an acid substance, pH 3.5 and is composed of 2 Hydrogen atoms (H) and 2 Oxygen atoms (O).  When the oxidising substance in the colour formula (i.e. ammonia) comes into contact with the Hydrogen peroxide, it releases the Oxygen from the compound. 

Hydrogen peroxide carries out the following functions:

Hydrogen peroxide balances the pH of the cosmetic colour

How much Hydrogen peroxide you need (the mixing ratio), depends on the pH of the colour formula.  Very alkaline substances damage the disulphide bonds in the hair structure causing damage and breakage.  The pH of the normal Inebrya tints are 9.5.  In order to balance the pH of the combination a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 is recommended.  This will lower the pH of the tint to an acceptable level to protect the integrity of the hair.  The Inebrya Superlighteners have a pH of 12 – thus more hydrogen peroxide is needed (a mixing ratio of 1:2) in order to bring down the pH of the mixture to within acceptable levels.

Hydrogen peroxide lifts the natural melanin from the hair

Hydrogen peroxide is labeled using either a %, a volume, or both.  Both measures indicate the concentration of oxygen available from the hydrogen peroxide contained in the bottle.

The % indicates the % of the content of the bottle that is pure Hydrogen peroxide.  The balance is water.  The Vol indicates the volume of oxygen that is released for every ml of contents.  For example, 1 ml of 20 Vol (6%) Hydrogen peroxide will release 20 ml of Oxygen. 

The concentration of oxygen in the Hydrogen peroxide will determine how much natural melanin will be removed from the hair.  Most hair colors require at least 1.5% peroxide to develop pigments contained in the color formulation.  Any remaining value in the peroxide creates the lift. 

Thus, the higher the volume or percentage, the more natural melanin will be removed and the lighter the hair will become.  Using too high of a volume developer can result in unnecessary lightening and major damage to the hair.  Too low a volume, and you may not get as light as you want.

Please keep in mind that hydrogen peroxide removes natural melanin and will not remove cosmetic colour.

Hydrogen peroxide oxidizes the pigments responsible for coloring the hair

When the Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with the colour formula, the oxidizing substance i.e. triggers the release of the oxygen that causes the colour molecules to polymerize and oxidise, getting trapped within the hair structure, thereby changing the colour of the hair.

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What to look for when choosing a permanent hair colour

Not all permanent cosmetic colour ranges are created equal.  But what criteria defines a high quality permanent hair colour?

  • The range should use ultrahigh-quality micro-pigments.  The smaller the size of the colour pigments, the better the penetration into the cortex prior to oxidation.
  • The colour pigments used should be free from mineral impurities to ensure excellent stability as well as colour duration.  You would not want any minerals effecting the end result that you are hoping to achieve.  Minerals, especially lead and aluminium, may furthermore causes allergic and chemical reactions.
  • All colour pigment molecules should be used during the colouring process, without waste, as any remaining pigments may alter the final result.  Most colour houses use actual weights of red, blue and yellow pigments in different ratios to obtain the nuances.  This, however, will lead to incorrect results as the pigments themselves are of different sizes and weights.  As a result, the weight of e.g. red pigments will lead to more molecules than required, as the red pigment molecule is smaller and lighter.  A Stoichiometric weighting system is more accurate.  This measures the actual number of molecules instead of the weight thereof, leading to more accurate ratios and more stable nuances.
  • All colours, especially fantasy colours, must already contain a component with a natural base.  This means that the colour does not have to be further mixed with a natural to obtain grey coverage.  It can be used as is.
  • It should have a delicate formula, free from p-Phenylenediamine (PpD) to ensure better scalp tolerance.  Look for brands that uses paratoluenediamine (PTD) instead of PpD, and for formulations with added Aloe Vera, to sooth scalp sensitivity.
  • If possible, look for brands that include natural oils and keratin in their permanent colour.  The oils maintain the moisture of the hair while the keratin protects the structure of the hair during the chemical process.  Good quality oils will also leave the hair with softness and shine.

Both the Inebrya and Bionic permanent colour ranges meet these criteria and is recommended to professional salons to ensure 100% grey coverage and colour durability.

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What you can do to prevent your cosmetic colour from fading

What causes colour loss and what can I do to prevent it?

Before going into the reasons behind colour fading, and the solutions, let’s look at the hair strand. Think of the hair as a tube. Now take hair colour and think of each colour molecule as a marble.  When you chemically alter your hair colour, you are filling that tube with marbles.  Over time, as you wash, style and wear, the marbles are constantly being shed.

But what causes these marbles to shed?  Well, here are the biggest culprits:

 Bad Shampoo

The absolute, number one reason for colour fading, is bad shampoo.  They contain sulfates that are added to the shampoo to obtain proper cleaning, but it would be like washing your hair with Sunlight Liquid.  Research has shown that sulfates are not necessary to get clean, oil-free hair.  Rather opt for a sulfate free shampoo or a shampoo without the harshest two types of sulfates, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).  We recommend the Karyn Deep Shine Shampoo which is Sulphate free or the Pro Colour Shampoo which is SLS/SLES free.


It is recommended to use a shampoo specifically designed to preserve or enhance the cosmetic colour.  Colour-safe products don’t contain alcohol, have low sulfate levels and often contain extra moisturizing elements, emollients and proteins to smooth the cuticle, giving hair lustre and shine. 

Read more about bad ingredients: https://nebeau.co.za/shampoo-bomb-in-a-bottle/

Over-shampooing

Over shampooing is another common reason for colour fading. Not only will it fade your colour but it is extremely bad for the health of the hair. Unless you have extremely oily scalp or use products that leave a heavy residue on the hair, you do not have to shampoo every day.  Every 2-3 days is quite sufficient.  If you can stretch it any more, even better.  To help you with the stretch, we recommend the Keratin Instant Dry Shampoo that you could use in-between washes to keep the dirt at bay.

Could co-washing be the answer? Read more here: https://nebeau.co.za/is-co-washing-the-next-best-thing-for-your-hair/

Thermal styling tools

Styling with heat is another colour fading culprit. Those flat irons we all love so much are doing a number not only on the health of your hair but even more on the cosmetic colour.  Heat damages the cuticle and exposes the cortex, allowing pigments to slip out.  Use a heat protectant spray like the Style-in Thermal spray or a leave-in treatment like the Inebrya Black Pepper range. Not only is the Black Pepper a thermal protection system but the breakthrough technology will reconstruct and regenerate you hair while keeping it straight until your next wash, thus no need for the flat iron to tame the frizz.

The Sun

We all know the damage that the harmful UV rays in sunlight can do to our skin.  Our hair is even more exposed as it faces the harmful rays “head-on”. Cover up with a hat or scarf or if you do not want your beautiful mane to be hidden away, at least use a product with a good UV filter.   Studies show that having a UV filter in a hair care product can reduce colour fading by up to 40%.  Look for products containing ingredients like Benzyl Salicylate or Panthenol.  Most leave-in conditioners and serums contain a UV filter.  We recommend the Pro Color Serum or the Argan Bi-phase conditioner (for finer hair).

Fluorescent lighting

Yes, those lights you sit under all day at work will fade your hair colour as it also contains harmful UV rays.  Using a product with UV protection will combat the colour loss.

Chlorine

Chemicals in your water, such as chlorine, will also fade your hair colour.  Chlorine is highly alkaline and will open the hair cuticle, exposing the cortex and allowing cosmetic colour to seep out.  In such a case it is necessary to use a conditioner with a very low pH to properly seal the cuticle.  We recommend the Pro Colour Cream – with its pH of 3.5 it will closely seal the cuticle, keeping all pigments nicely inside the shaft.

Wind

Everyone enjoys a crisp, fall breeze, but are we prepared for the colour fading that comes with it? Much like washing your hair, high winds and drier temperatures can be especially damaging if your hair isn’t properly prepped for the day.  Before heading out, lightly mist your hair down and apply a moisturizing serum to your lengths and ends. 


We recommend the Pro Color serum – It will create a barrier between your hair and the wind, preventing moisture and colour loss.  And it will add extra shine and brilliance to dull dried-out hair.

Poor colour service

If you colour your hair at home with box colour or if an un-qualified person performs the colour service for you, you could be faced with major problems:

  • Improper consideration of hair porosity: Prior to colouring, it’s important to determine the health of the hair.  Damaged hair is very porous which means that it will grab the colour quickly and as a result would come out darker than you anticipated.  Also, porous hair will lose the cosmetic pigments quicker, thus faster colour fading.  For optimum colour results hair needs to be in a healthy condition.  So if you want your colour to last a protein or moisturizing treatment may be needed before you colour.  This will help “fill in” empty spaces in the hair and give the colour molecules a better anchor point, resulting in longer colour results.
  • Poor quality pigments: In order or save cost and make products financially viable, manufacturers sometimes need to compensate on the quality of the ingredients.  So they substitute pure pigments with colour laden with metals and/or pPD.  But if you use poor quality pigments you cannot expect high quality cosmetic colour.  And if your cosmetic colour is poor to begin with, you cannot really expect it to last.
  • Insufficient processing time: A common reason behind fast-fading hair colour is insufficient processing time, meaning the hair colour did not stay on long enough.  This especially holds true if you or your client have grey hair.  Grey hair cuticles are tightly packed down, and take longer to open and absorb artificial hair colour molecules.  The box does not clearly specify what to do in cases like these and you might not get the result that you were looking for.

Moral of the story:  Get a professional to perform the colour service.  That is what they are trained to do.

Shampooing too soon after a colour service

Remember to wait at least 24 hours after a colour service before washing your hair.  Shampoo has an alkaline pH which will open the cuticle, and you want to keep it closed for as long as possible. 

So the gist of it all is: Healthy hair will maintain colour longer than damaged, dry hair. But keep in mind that all hair colour will fade to some degree.  How you treat your hair will determine the extent of hair colour fading.