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What you can do to prevent your cosmetic colour from fading

What causes colour loss and what can I do to prevent it?

Before going into the reasons behind colour fading, and the solutions, let’s look at the hair strand. Think of the hair as a tube. Now take hair colour and think of each colour molecule as a marble.  When you chemically alter your hair colour, you are filling that tube with marbles.  Over time, as you wash, style and wear, the marbles are constantly being shed.

But what causes these marbles to shed?  Well, here are the biggest culprits:

 Bad Shampoo

The absolute, number one reason for colour fading, is bad shampoo.  They contain sulfates that are added to the shampoo to obtain proper cleaning, but it would be like washing your hair with Sunlight Liquid.  Research has shown that sulfates are not necessary to get clean, oil-free hair.  Rather opt for a sulfate free shampoo or a shampoo without the harshest two types of sulfates, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).  We recommend the Karyn Deep Shine Shampoo which is Sulphate free or the Pro Colour Shampoo which is SLS/SLES free.


It is recommended to use a shampoo specifically designed to preserve or enhance the cosmetic colour.  Colour-safe products don’t contain alcohol, have low sulfate levels and often contain extra moisturizing elements, emollients and proteins to smooth the cuticle, giving hair lustre and shine. 

Read more about bad ingredients: https://nebeau.co.za/shampoo-bomb-in-a-bottle/

Over-shampooing

Over shampooing is another common reason for colour fading. Not only will it fade your colour but it is extremely bad for the health of the hair. Unless you have extremely oily scalp or use products that leave a heavy residue on the hair, you do not have to shampoo every day.  Every 2-3 days is quite sufficient.  If you can stretch it any more, even better.  To help you with the stretch, we recommend the Keratin Instant Dry Shampoo that you could use in-between washes to keep the dirt at bay.

Could co-washing be the answer? Read more here: https://nebeau.co.za/is-co-washing-the-next-best-thing-for-your-hair/

Thermal styling tools

Styling with heat is another colour fading culprit. Those flat irons we all love so much are doing a number not only on the health of your hair but even more on the cosmetic colour.  Heat damages the cuticle and exposes the cortex, allowing pigments to slip out.  Use a heat protectant spray like the Style-in Thermal spray or a leave-in treatment like the Inebrya Black Pepper range. Not only is the Black Pepper a thermal protection system but the breakthrough technology will reconstruct and regenerate you hair while keeping it straight until your next wash, thus no need for the flat iron to tame the frizz.

The Sun

We all know the damage that the harmful UV rays in sunlight can do to our skin.  Our hair is even more exposed as it faces the harmful rays “head-on”. Cover up with a hat or scarf or if you do not want your beautiful mane to be hidden away, at least use a product with a good UV filter.   Studies show that having a UV filter in a hair care product can reduce colour fading by up to 40%.  Look for products containing ingredients like Benzyl Salicylate or Panthenol.  Most leave-in conditioners and serums contain a UV filter.  We recommend the Pro Color Serum or the Argan Bi-phase conditioner (for finer hair).

Fluorescent lighting

Yes, those lights you sit under all day at work will fade your hair colour as it also contains harmful UV rays.  Using a product with UV protection will combat the colour loss.

Chlorine

Chemicals in your water, such as chlorine, will also fade your hair colour.  Chlorine is highly alkaline and will open the hair cuticle, exposing the cortex and allowing cosmetic colour to seep out.  In such a case it is necessary to use a conditioner with a very low pH to properly seal the cuticle.  We recommend the Pro Colour Cream – with its pH of 3.5 it will closely seal the cuticle, keeping all pigments nicely inside the shaft.

Wind

Everyone enjoys a crisp, fall breeze, but are we prepared for the colour fading that comes with it? Much like washing your hair, high winds and drier temperatures can be especially damaging if your hair isn’t properly prepped for the day.  Before heading out, lightly mist your hair down and apply a moisturizing serum to your lengths and ends. 


We recommend the Pro Color serum – It will create a barrier between your hair and the wind, preventing moisture and colour loss.  And it will add extra shine and brilliance to dull dried-out hair.

Poor colour service

If you colour your hair at home with box colour or if an un-qualified person performs the colour service for you, you could be faced with major problems:

  • Improper consideration of hair porosity: Prior to colouring, it’s important to determine the health of the hair.  Damaged hair is very porous which means that it will grab the colour quickly and as a result would come out darker than you anticipated.  Also, porous hair will lose the cosmetic pigments quicker, thus faster colour fading.  For optimum colour results hair needs to be in a healthy condition.  So if you want your colour to last a protein or moisturizing treatment may be needed before you colour.  This will help “fill in” empty spaces in the hair and give the colour molecules a better anchor point, resulting in longer colour results.
  • Poor quality pigments: In order or save cost and make products financially viable, manufacturers sometimes need to compensate on the quality of the ingredients.  So they substitute pure pigments with colour laden with metals and/or pPD.  But if you use poor quality pigments you cannot expect high quality cosmetic colour.  And if your cosmetic colour is poor to begin with, you cannot really expect it to last.
  • Insufficient processing time: A common reason behind fast-fading hair colour is insufficient processing time, meaning the hair colour did not stay on long enough.  This especially holds true if you or your client have grey hair.  Grey hair cuticles are tightly packed down, and take longer to open and absorb artificial hair colour molecules.  The box does not clearly specify what to do in cases like these and you might not get the result that you were looking for.

Moral of the story:  Get a professional to perform the colour service.  That is what they are trained to do.

Shampooing too soon after a colour service

Remember to wait at least 24 hours after a colour service before washing your hair.  Shampoo has an alkaline pH which will open the cuticle, and you want to keep it closed for as long as possible. 

So the gist of it all is: Healthy hair will maintain colour longer than damaged, dry hair. But keep in mind that all hair colour will fade to some degree.  How you treat your hair will determine the extent of hair colour fading. 

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Colorful, vibrant and versatile hair can easily be done and maintained at home.

Are you tired of the same old shades – the traditional blonde, brunette and red hues?  Would you like more versatility but without the commitment? 

Is your permanent cosmetic color all washed out and faded but you don’t have the time or money for a salon visit?

Meet Tonology Pure Pigments.

It is a direct, semi-permanent hair color available in 12 colors.  All the colors can be inter-mixed to create irresistibly, vibrant hair.  And if that is too much for your, tone it down with the Pastel mix for a more subtle look. 

Thus, for “shouting” hair color, use it straight out of the tube for eye catching, super-bright colors or highlights.  For “talking” hair color, mix it with the Pastel mix for a more romantic shade and feel.   The possibilities are endless.

Even if you just want to bring your washed out permanent hair color back to life, Tonology is perfect to enhance and maintain your shade but without a trip to the salon.  Do it right at home, with time to spare, as the processing time is only 20 minutes.

Colors are very vibrant, but to make the colors really “pop” it is recommended to be used on a pre-lightened base.  And remember that color results are always dependent on the condition and porosity of the hair.  But not to worry, Tonology also contains moisturising agents, so it will leave your hair soft, nourished and full of shine.

Furthermore it is very gentle on the hair as it is ammonia free and does not require the use of a developer.  No ammonia means less sensitivity. No peroxide means no more damage.

Application:

After shampooing, apply 20- 40ml with gloves and a tint brush to towel dried hair.  Gently massage and comb through.  Leave on for 15 – 30 minutes.  Rinse thoroughly.

It is as easy as that.

The color is gradually eliminated trough washing and lasts about 6 – 10 washes depending on the condition and porosity of your hair.

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Your pregnancy may affect your hair – and not necessarily for the better.

Great hair is something most pregnant woman rave about.  Your hair appears shinier and healthier.  Some woman experience changes in hair texture, such as more or less natural curl.  And many moms-to-be notice a fuller head of hair.

That is because during pregnancy you have increased levels of estrogen and androgen.  Every strand of hair goes through a three-stage cycle of growth, transition and rest before it falls out. Normally, we shed up to 100 hairs a day, but the extra estrogen produced during pregnancy prolongs the growth stage, resulting in very little shedding.

But it could also go the other way:  Some woman see drastic changes when their light hair turns darker, curly hair falls flat, or pencil straight hair turns curly.  Some pregnant woman also notice new hair growing in unwanted places, and can appear thicker and darker.

But how can hair suddenly become darker?  The culprit: Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH).  These levels are raised during pregnancy (and in woman using birth control pills).  MSH is a collective name for a group of peptide hormones produced by the skin, pituitary gland and hypothalamus. In response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation its production by the skin and pituitary is enhanced, and this plays a key role in producing coloured pigmentation found in the skin, hair and eyes.  Couple that with excess adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) found with Cushing’s disease and your hair colour could darken dramatically.

This would also affect the bleach and colour services performed post-partum, as there would be more pigment in the hair shaft than normal, so your bleach or colour service could take longer than usual or could not be as effective as before your pregnancy.

Studies show our bodies absorb very little of the chemicals in hair dyes (as well as those of bleach, relaxers or perms), so three or four trips to the salon during a pregnancy is deemed safe.  But always consult with your doctor first.  If you do decide to colour your hair while pregnant, it might come out a different colour than the one you expect.  Due to the estrogen the hair may be stronger and more resistant to the colour and therefore not take as well as usual (be lighter), or it will be more porous and absorb the colour potentially making it darker than expected. 

Good news is:  Most often the change is temporary, occurring during the pregnancy only.  When your hormone roller coaster levels out about six to nine months postpartum – or possibly later if you’re breastfeeding, your hair’s growth cycle will go back to normal.  Body hair will thin out and lighten; that massive mane will go back to its usual size. For some woman, this transition is dramatic, resulting in a condition called telogen effluvium, where hair may come out in handfuls. Some new moms even experience small temporary bald spots for a few months.

Will it happen to you?  While every pregnancy is different, one thing’s for sure: topsy-turvy hormones.  Whether the good, the bad and the ugly, we as woman experience plenty of pregnancy – related hormonal changes as constant surprises. 

There are a wide variety of products available to make the transitions up to and after pregnancy a little more bearable.

  • Should you want to colour your hair during pregnancy the safest option will be ammonia free colour such as the Inebrya Bionic Colour Range.  This range is also pPD free.
  • For home care opt for products that are certified organic and are free of harmful ingredients such as SLS/SLES or parabens.  Inebrya provides 3 options:  The Karyn and the Green ranges are safest.
  • If you prefer the smooth, frizz-free look, stay away from smoothing systems containing formaldehyde.  Opt for healthier options like the Inebrya Black Pepper range.  This range is 100% Vegan, Organic, Paraben free and does not contain any formaldehyde or formaldehyde releasing agents.
  • Treat yourself to a nice treatment now and again to ensure that you hair remains healthy and moisturised.  The Inebrya Karyn Range is 100% Vegan, only uses organic ingredients and are SLS/SLES, Paraffin, Silicone, Sulphate and Paraben free.
  • To combat excessive hair loss after your pregnancy invest in good quality hair loss prevention systems such as the Energy Lotion and the Tricovit Patches.

Some of the hair changes that happen during and after pregnancy can be distressing, but it’s important to remember that they’re temporary and common.  But if the growth – or loss – is significant or really bothering you, there are professional treatments available; you don’t have to just live with it. If you’re concerned, talk to your doctor for more information.

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Spent lots of money on your hair extensions? Here is how to make the investment last longer.

What can I do to extend the lifespan of my hair extensions? Here are a few home-care tips to ensure that your hair extensions last as long as possible.

Washing:

  • When washing, always work from roots to tips, in the direction of the cuticle.
  • Wash underneath every tape to remove the natural oils from the scalp that could loosen the tapes.
  • Use hydrating shampoos and treatments on your extensions as the ends tend to dry out over time due to styling tools, brushing, climate and UV rays. We recommend the Inebrya Green Moisture range as it is packed with moisture to keep the hair soft and hydrated.
  • Avoid getting conditioners, treatments and oils on the tapes, as it will cause the tape to loosen from the hair.  These products are meant for lengths and ends, not roots.
  • Avoid products that contain sulfates, ammonia and parabens. The Inebrya Green Moisture range is free of all these nasty little ingredients.
  • Use a good hair serum to moisturise and seal the ends.

Brushing:

  • Be very gentle when brushing as to not add unnecessary tension on the hair follicles. 
  • Start from the bottom and work your way up while holding the top part of the hair to avoid tension on the scalp and tape.
  • Try to brush as close to the tape or ring as possible without damaging it.
  • Do not brush extensions when wet.
  • Do not tie up your hair shortly after installation, as it may cause unnecessary tension on the cuticle.

Sleeping:

  • Do not sleep with wet hair extensions, as they can tangle easily.
  • For sleeping, plait or tie hair up in a loose bun.  It is recommended to sleep on a satin pillow case to prevent tangling.

Styling:

  • Use styling products that are alcohol-free and that do not leave a build-up or residue. The Inebrya Style-IN range has a variety of products to choose from.
  • When using straightening or curling irons, avoid using high heat settings (<180˚C).
  • When using straightening or curling irons, always use a good thermal protector. Use the Style-IN Thermo spray or the Inebrya Liss One to protect your hair.
  • The hair should be 100% dry before using straightening or curling irons.  Never use them on wet hair.

Swimming:

  • Before swimming, wet hair thoroughly with clean water.
  • Apply a good hair serum or oil to wet hair to lock in as much moisture as possible. Here I would recommend the Inebrya Argan Oil Pro Age Treatment or the Inebrya Argan Age Frizz free spray.
  • Immediately after swimming, rinse the hair with clear water and apply a leave-in conditioner.

Hair extensions cost a lot and cannot be replaced easily without careful budgeting and saving. Make yours last as long as possible. Look after it as if it is your own hair.

Information courtesy of Juanè Jacobs: Stay Beautiful Hair Extensions

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Is Co-washing the next best thing for your hair?

Sometimes you really do not have to wash your hair.  Here is why.

Shampoos and conditioners fulfill very specific functions.  Most balanced shampoos have a pH of +/- 5.5.  This will ensure that the cuticle of the hair is opened to thoroughly clean the hair.  The higher the pH, the more the cuticle will open.

Good conditioners have a pH around 4.5 to securely close the cuticle after shampooing.  It hydrates the hair (i.e. replaces some of the oil that has been removed by the shampoo) and some will film the hair to smooth the cuticle and to prevent tangles.  Conditioners are VERY important and should not be skipped, as you do not want to leave the cuticle open.  That will lead to colour and moisture loss.  In other words: Dry, dull hair. 

Now water has a pH of +/- 7 – which is higher than that of a shampoo.  Hence, it would be sufficient to “wash” your hair using only water and conditioning afterwards – i.e. Co-washing.

However, co-washing will not be sufficient if there is sebum on the scalp and roots or if you use any products that could possibly leave a residue that will lead to product build-up (i.e. hairspray, dry shampoo, etc.).  Then you would need to use a shampoo that is both balanced and efficient.

Sebum is the oil that is produced by the sebaceous gland in the scalp.  This oil is necessary to prevent hair from drying out, but dirt and dust accumulates on the oil, making it a little bit more difficult to remove to dirt and dust.  Hence why shampoos are formulated to contain surfactants.  A surfactant lowers the surface tension between the sebum and the water, making it possible to wash away the oil.  Water alone (irrespective of its pH) cannot do this.

But, if your hair is never oily, or if you use products that are residue-free, co-washing could be a great way to save time and money.  But remember – Always, always finish with a good quality conditioner!  And remember – conditioner goes on the lengths and ends, not the scalp! 

Always use good quality styling products that are alcohol free and that won’t cause product build-up on the hair.
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Beware! Your shampoo could be a bomb in a bottle!

Nowadays we use so many different cosmetics on our bodies. But shockingly we never research which of these ingredients are harmful and blindly trust that manufacturers won’t include bad ingredients in their products. But why is it important for us to know the ingredients? Well, it is sad to say that some of these products that we use every day can lead to neurotoxicity, lung toxicity, and some are even carcinogenic (known to cause cancer).

Some of the ingredients you can’t even pronounce so we tend to slip up on checking the back of the bottle. So I am here to warn you against some of the most common potentially harmful ingredients to avoid. These include:

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
  • Sodium Chloride
  • Parabens
  • Polyetheylene Glycols (PEG)
  • Diethanolamine (DEA)
  • Triethanolamine (TEA)
  • Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde releasing agents
  • Alcohol
  • Synthetic Fragrances
  • Synthetic Colors
  • Dimethicone
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Triclosan
  • Retinyl Palmitate

These are 15 of the most harmful ingredients that you may find in your cosmetics. So what to do???

Opt for natural or vegan products.

The Inebrya retail ranges offer so much versatility so that if your health is important to you, you will find a product within the range that will cater to your needs.


The Karyn range is sulfate free, paraben free, silicone free , gluten free and is 100% vegan.

The Inebrya Green range uses eco-certified ingredients and is SLS/SLES free, Sodium Chloride free, MEA/DEA/TEA free, Paraben free, Colorant free and is tested for quantities of Nickel, Cobalt and Chrome.

The Inebrya Black Pepper range uses 100% organic Black Pepper, is SLS/SLES free, Paraben free, Silicone free, CIT/MIT free and is 100% vegan.

Other ranges that are SLS/SLES free include the Keratin, Shecare and Pro Colour ranges.

So there are alternative products and we can do our part to prevent diseases. Choose healthy and keep an eye out for the “Watch List” ingredients as listed above. Limit your exposure.

Healthy hair, healthy you.

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Can I sleep with my hair conditioner or hair mask? Will it have an improved result?

Hair masks and conditioners are formulated to have a specific pH.  Shampoo’s normally have a more alkaline pH in order to open the cuticles.  Hair conditioners and masks have a more acidic pH to close the cuticles.  It is imperative to close the cuticle to retain moisture, prevent tangles and prevent static.

Manufacturers use a variety of acidic substances like citric acid, hyaluronic acids, etc. to reduce the pH of hair conditioners and masks.  However, strong acids are very dehydrating. It is also very corrosive and will damage the protein and lipids in the structure of the hair.  The extent of the damage will depend on:

  • The strength of the acid; and/or
  • The duration of the exposure.

Thus, the answer here lies in the instructions on the bottle.  If the bottle says to rinse out after 2 minutes, then rinse it out after 2 minutes.  The formulation is probably too acidic to be left on longer than the indicated time and could severely dry out and damage your hair if the hair is exposed to the conditioner or mask for longer.  Only leave a product in, if it specifically declares that it is a leave-in product.

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Growing a beard can be a daunting task. Here’s how to do it the easy way.

Growing a beard can be a daunting task. It requires a lot of patience and you might not get exactly what you want.  You might be hoping for a lush, long, Jo Black mane, but end up with bum fluff that is patchy or out of control.

Here are a few tips to help you through the growing phase:

  • Keep your beard clean by using a good beard shampoo.
  • Initially you will have a lot of itch. It is important to use sulfate free products enhanced with Aloe Vera to limit irritation and to sooth the skin.
  • Use a good quality beard serum to keep the beard hair soft and flexible. You can apply it all the way down the hair shaft to moisturize the skin.
  • Keep your beard neat with a good beard comb or brush.
  • It helps to have mustache wax at hand to tame any flyaways. Don’t pull them out.  It will make the patchiness worse and can permanently damage the hair follicle.
  • Schedule an appointment with a qualified barber to shape your beard to suit the shape of your face.

Invest in good quality beard products.  It will make the growing of a lush mane much easier.

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Fact or Myth? Does brushing make your hair healthier?

We all have heard some stories and old wives tales, especially about hair.  Everyone has tried at least one of the little experiments passed on from generation to generation – some even with disastrous outcome and other just for being silly. But which of them can we actually believe?

Hair Myth 1: Brush 100 times a day for healthier hair.

Harsh and excessive brushing is now know to risk damaging your mane. Brushing pulls out hair that isn’t ready to fall out, often breaks healthy hairs, and scratches the scalp. Brush gently for styling only – not to stimulate the scalp.

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Save money and the environment by switching to disposable salon towels

How much water do you use to wash your salon towels?  How much energy do you need to wash and dry these towels?  How much do the detergents and softeners cost you every month? What is the impact of these detergents and softeners on the environment?

Well, we did a calculation to determine the cost of washing your towels and it comes to about R1.80 per towel*.  This cost does NOT include the cost of the towel, the cost of the appliances, the cost of drying or the time and effort to wash, dry and fold the laundry.

Would it not therefore make sense to switch to disposable towels?  The benefits of disposable towels are:

  • They are 100% bio-degradable and are decomposed by naturally occurring micro-organisms into CO2 and H2O;
  • Made from certified renewable sources i.e. regenerated forests;
  • They are 10 times more absorbent than normal cotton towels thereby reducing blow-drying time by 40%;
  • They are more hygienic and eliminates the risk of cross infection;
  • No more towel odour due to bacteria build-up;
  • They are safer on the environment because detergents and other chemicals are avoided;
  • It saves water and electricity involved in washing.  Up to 44% less electricity is used;
  • It saves hours of laundry time;
  • Limited storage is required as it folds smaller than normal cotton towels;
  • They are soft, comfortable and just the right size.

You can reduce your carbon footprint by switching to disposable salon towels and in the process your salon can save money too.  We use so much water to wash our towels and the chemicals we have to use to properly sterilize the towels contaminates our precious water resources.

Contact us on finance@nebeau.co.za to place your order now!

 

*The following assumptions were used to determine the cost per towel:

  • A small salon washes 10 towels per load;
  • A new generation washing machine uses 30 litres of water and 7kw of electricity per wash;
  • Water is charged at R25 per kl;
  • The manufacturers recommend to use 150ml of washing powder and 20ml of fabric softener per load;
  • Washing powder costs around R30 per kg;
  • Fabric softener costs around R40 for 2 litres.